Nearshoring workwear: why European brands are moving part of their production closer
Nearshoring means producing in a country close to your market rather than in a distant one. For a European workwear brand, that means looking at the Mediterranean region and Eastern Europe; here is what drives the choice and the questions to ask.
What we are talking about
The term describes moving part of production to countries near the sales market. For Europe, the regions most often mentioned are Türkiye, North Africa (Tunisia, Morocco) and Eastern Europe. As early as 2014, McKinsey noted that Mediterranean and Eastern European countries appealed to companies wanting to move manufacturing closer to Europe.
It does not necessarily mean leaving Asia. In its 2021 survey of fashion chief procurement officers, McKinsey refers to diversified sourcing strategies to gain flexibility.
What public studies say
Several McKinsey reports on apparel sourcing follow this trend.
- 2018, "Is apparel manufacturing coming home?": the report links nearshoring to the need for more agile production in smaller batches with on demand replenishment, and to pressure around overproduction.
- 2021, "Revamping fashion sourcing: Speed and flexibility to the fore": 71% of the chief procurement officers surveyed plan to increase their nearshoring share. The report mentions the search for suppliers that are fast and flexible on production cycles and batch sizes. It also notes obstacles: raw material supply close to market remains limited.
These studies cover apparel in general, but the same questions apply to workwear.
Why it matters for workwear
Workwear has a few specific features.
- Shorter runs. When a range comes in several colours, sizes and sector versions, being able to launch a short run of one style or one colour matters as much as total volume.
- Repeat orders. When core styles stay in the catalogue and are reordered as needed, a nearby factory makes regular replenishment easier, as the 2018 report describes.
- Production follow up. When the factory works in the same language and a close time zone, discussions about a prototype, a measurement or a defect are simpler to settle.
- Visits. A buyer can travel to the site more easily to approve a prototype, see a production line or attend an inspection.
None of these points says anything about total cost, which depends on each item, the materials and transport. Each brand needs to compare its own quotations.
The customs framework by region
The customs regime differs depending on the country chosen.
- Eastern Europe, EU member states. According to the Council of the EU, member states do not impose customs duties on goods traded between them.
- Türkiye. The EU Türkiye customs union entered into force on 31 December 1995. According to the European Commission, it covers all industrial goods.
- Tunisia. The EU Tunisia Association Agreement was signed in July 1995 and entered into force on 30 March 1998. It creates a free trade area in which all trade in industrial products takes place free of tariffs. According to the European Commission, textiles made up around 19% of EU imports from Tunisia in 2025.
- Morocco. The EU Morocco Association Agreement entered into force on 1 March 2000; trade in industrial products is entirely liberalised.
Pan Euro Mediterranean rules of origin
For Tunisia and Morocco, duty free entry requires the garment to qualify as originating. These rules are based on the Regional Convention on pan Euro Mediterranean preferential rules of origin, known as the PEM Convention. It has 25 contracting parties, including the EU, Tunisia, Morocco, Türkiye and the Western Balkans.
Two points matter to a garment buyer:
- Diagonal cumulation. Materials originating in one contracting party can be used in a product made in another without the product losing its origin, provided free trade agreements link all the parties involved.
- Double transformation for textiles. The revised rules provide for double transformation for textiles, under which more finishing operations confer origin. They have applied between the EU and Tunisia since 1 March 2025.
In practice, the origin of the fabric must be checked item by item. Our article on EU customs duty for clothing made in Tunisia covers these rules in detail.
At Vestra
Vestra manufactures workwear in Sidi Bou Ali, near Sousse, 25 minutes from Enfidha airport. The factory has large lines for heavy items and small lines for light items and short runs, with a minimum from 200 pieces per style. Clients follow each order on the online client portal, work in French, English, Dutch or German with a sales contact based in Nice, and can visit the factory by appointment. Delivery is FOB or to the client's warehouse through a freight forwarder.
To discuss your project, send your tech pack to sales@vestratextile.com.
FAQ
Does nearshoring mean producing in the EU?
Not only. For a European brand, the term also covers neighbouring countries outside the EU, such as Türkiye, Tunisia or Morocco.
Do you have to move everything?
No. The studies quoted describe diversified strategies: some brands keep distant production for part of their range and move short runs and repeat orders closer.
Does a garment sewn in Tunisia always enter the EU duty free?
No. It must meet the rules of origin and come with a proof of origin. The origin of the fabric is the key point.
Vestra Manufacturing, workwear manufacturer in Tunisia →
Sources
- McKinsey, "What's next in apparel sourcing?" (2014; Mediterranean and Eastern European countries for moving production closer to Europe): https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/whats-next-in-apparel-sourcing
- McKinsey, "Is apparel manufacturing coming home?" (2018; agile production, smaller batches, on demand replenishment, overproduction): https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/is-apparel-manufacturing-coming-home
- McKinsey, "Revamping fashion sourcing: Speed and flexibility to the fore" (2021; 71% of CPOs plan more nearshoring, batch size flexibility, limited raw material supply, diversified strategies): https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/revamping-fashion-sourcing-speed-and-flexibility-to-the-fore
- Council of the EU, The EU customs union (no customs duties between member states): https://www.consilium.europa.eu/en/policies/the-eu-customs-union/
- European Commission, DG Trade, EU Türkiye relations (customs union, industrial goods): https://policy.trade.ec.europa.eu/eu-trade-relationships-country-and-region/countries-and-regions/turkiye_en
- European Commission, DG Trade, EU Tunisia relations (Association Agreement, industrial products, share of textiles, PEM Convention): https://policy.trade.ec.europa.eu/eu-trade-relationships-country-and-region/countries-and-regions/tunisia_en
- European Commission, DG Trade, EU Morocco relations (Association Agreement, industrial products): https://policy.trade.ec.europa.eu/eu-trade-relationships-country-and-region/countries-and-regions/morocco_en
- European Commission, DG Taxation and Customs Union, pan Euro Mediterranean cumulation and the PEM Convention (25 parties, diagonal cumulation, double transformation, revised rules with Tunisia): https://taxation-customs.ec.europa.eu/customs-4/international-affairs/pan-euro-mediterranean-cumulation-and-pem-convention_en