Minimum order quantities in garment manufacturing: how a minimum per style and per colour is set

What a minimum quantity covers

A minimum order quantity, often called MOQ, is the number of pieces below which a manufacturer will not start production. It can be expressed in several ways:

• per order, across all references;
• per style, meaning per garment reference;
• per colour, when each colour of the same style is counted separately;
• sometimes per trim, for example for a specific button or label.

These levels can apply together at the same supplier.

For a workwear buyer, the useful question therefore has two parts: what is the minimum per style, and how is that minimum spread across colours.

Why a manufacturer sets a minimum

Part of the work needed to produce a garment is the same whether you make a hundred pieces or several thousand. Several stages represent a fixed cost:

• reviewing the tech pack and breaking the item down into sewing operations;
• making and approving the prototype;
• setting the machines and preparing the line for a new style;
• putting the quality control plan in place and training the operators on the item.

These costs are spread over the number of pieces produced. On a very small quantity, they weigh heavily in the price of each garment. The minimum keeps a balance between this preparation work and the volume made.

The learning curve also counts. On the first pieces of a style, operators find their bearings on each operation. A run that is too short stops just as the line starts working at a steady pace.

Per style or per colour: what changes

The same style offered in several colours is not a single run from the manufacturer's point of view. Each colour involves:

• a separate cut, with its own fabric lay;
• a change of thread, sometimes of matching zips or buttons;
• separate tracking at inspection and packing.

This is why some manufacturers set a minimum per colour on top of the minimum per style. An order of 300 pieces in a single colour does not require the same organisation as an order of 300 pieces spread over five colours.

Materials play a part too. Fabric and trims manufacturers apply their own minimums, often expressed per colour. For a fabric dyed to order, a dye batch cannot be half filled without the risk of shade variation. A colour ordered in a small quantity can therefore create a supply difficulty before it even reaches the sewing floor: in many cases, the minimum that blocks the order is not the manufacturer's, but the fabric's.

The production model changes the discussion

The minimum is not discussed in the same way depending on the model chosen.

Under CMT (cut, make, trim), the client supplies the fabrics and trims. Minimum purchase quantities for materials are therefore handled on the client's side. The manufacturer reasons mainly in terms of setting up the line and the number of colours to run in sequence.

Under full package, the manufacturer buys the materials itself. The minimums imposed by fabric and trims suppliers then enter its calculation directly. A specific colour, a particular reflective tape or a logo button can push up the quantity required.

How to present a small run

A small quantity is not necessarily turned down. It simply needs to be presented well so that the manufacturer can review it. A few practical approaches:

• Group colours. Limit the number of colours per style, or keep a secondary colour for a few references only.
• Standardise trims. Using the same thread, zips and buttons across several styles makes purchasing and machine settings easier.
• Share the size breakdown. A clear size ratio lets cutting be prepared without back and forth.
• Give visibility on what comes next. Saying whether the run is a trial, a regular repeat order or a one off order helps the manufacturer assess the request.
• Provide a complete tech pack. The more precise it is, the more reliable the costing, including on a small quantity.

What to ask a manufacturer

To compare offers, ask each manufacturer the same questions:

• Does the minimum apply per style, per colour or per order?
• How are runs with several colours handled?
• Does the minimum differ between CMT and full package?
• Under what conditions can a small run be reviewed?

The answers quickly show whether the manufacturer's organisation matches the size of your orders.

At Vestra

At Vestra, production starts from 200 pieces per style. Small runs are reviewed case by case, depending on the number of colours requested. The factory in Sidi Bou Ali, near Sousse, has large lines for heavy items (coveralls, trousers, jackets, high visibility) and small lines for light items and short runs (smocks, medical tunics, aprons). Costing is done from the tech pack, by breaking the item down into sewing operations. Vestra works on a CMT or full package basis depending on the product family.

To find out how your run can be organised, send your tech pack to sales@vestratextile.com.

FAQ

Does the minimum per style apply to each colour?

It depends on the manufacturer. Some count the total for the style, others set a threshold per colour. Ask the question in the first exchange.

Is a quantity below the minimum always turned down?

No. Some manufacturers review small runs case by case, depending on the number of colours, the materials and the complexity of the item.

Do a jacket and an apron have the same minimum?

Not necessarily. A heavy item and a light item do not run on the same lines and do not require the same preparation. The minimum can therefore vary by product family.

Vestra Manufacturing, workwear manufacturer in Tunisia →

Sources

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