CMT vs full package: what is the difference for a workwear brand

Two models, one manufacturing chain

In both cases, the garment is cut, sewn, inspected and packed by the manufacturer. The difference lies in what happens before cutting: the selection and purchase of fabrics and trims, and product development.

• CMT stands for "cut, make, trim". The manufacturer brings its sewing expertise; the client brings everything else.
• Full package refers to a broader service: the manufacturer also buys the materials and takes charge of development.

CMT in practice

Under CMT, the client supplies the fabrics and trims: threads, zips, buttons, press studs, hook and loop fastening, tapes, labels. The client also supplies its patterns and tech pack. The manufacturer cuts, sews, inspects and packs from these.

This model suits brands that:

• already have fabric suppliers and want to keep them;
• use the same fabric across several manufacturers and want identical material everywhere;
• have proven patterns and a complete tech pack;
• want to keep control over material choice, for example for technical fabrics.

In return, the client organises the supply. Fabrics and trims must reach the factory complete and in the right quantities, colour by colour, before cutting. A missing trim holds up production of the style concerned.

Full package in practice

Under full package, the manufacturer buys the materials. Product development takes place on site: at Vestra, it happens on the prototype line, which is separate from the production lines. The client approves the prototype before launch.

This model suits brands that:

• want a single point of contact for materials and garment making;
• have no fabric purchasing team;
• are launching a new product family and need development work.

Full package is not available for every product at every manufacturer. At Vestra, it is offered for certain product families. For the others, CMT remains the standard.

Points of comparison

To decide, compare the two models on these practical criteria:

• Material purchasing: by the client under CMT, by the manufacturer under full package.
• Patterns: supplied by the client under CMT; under full package, development is done at the manufacturer.
• Logistics coordination: under CMT, the client has its materials delivered to the factory; under full package, the manufacturer handles it.
• Control over materials: CMT leaves the client with the exact choice of fabrics and suppliers.
• Number of contacts: one under full package, several under CMT (manufacturer, fabric suppliers and trims suppliers).
• Costing: under CMT, the quotation covers the making, meaning the cutting, sewing, inspection and packing operations; under full package, it also includes the materials.

An often overlooked point: customs origin

The production model has a direct effect on customs duties. A garment made in Tunisia enters the EU free of customs duties if it qualifies as "originating". Origin depends largely on the fabric used.

According to the European Commission guidance on the revised Pan Euro Mediterranean rules of origin, a woven garment (Chapter 62) obtains origin through weaving combined with making up, including cutting, or through making up preceded by printing of the fabric. The 2012 rules required manufacture from yarn. In both cases, cutting and sewing a fabric without originating status is, as a general rule, not enough. Fabrics originating in the EU can however be counted thanks to cumulation of origin.

Under CMT, it is therefore the client who, by choosing the fabrics, largely determines whether the garments can benefit from duty free entry. This should be checked before ordering, with a customs broker or freight forwarder.

How to choose

A few pointers help to decide:

1. You already have reliable fabric suppliers and approved patterns: CMT is then the natural choice.
2. You are launching a new product with no fabric or pattern finalised: full package simplifies development, if the manufacturer offers it for that product family.
3. Someone in your team must be able to follow material deliveries to the factory. Without that resource, CMT requires rigorous organisation.
4. The origin of your fabrics must allow duty free entry, a point to check before ordering.

The two models can also run side by side: CMT for your core styles, full package for a new family.

At Vestra

Vestra works under both models. Under CMT, the factory cuts, sews, inspects and packs from the client's patterns and tech pack. Under full package, Vestra buys the materials and carries out development on its prototype line, for certain product families. In both cases, the client follows the order on the online portal: materials, cutting, sewing, inspection, shipment.

To find out which model suits your product, send your tech pack to sales@vestratextile.com.

Frequently asked questions

Under CMT, who supplies the patterns?

The client. The manufacturer cuts and sews from the patterns and tech pack provided. A reliable pattern, graded in all sizes, avoids corrections at prototype stage.

Does full package cover all workwear?

No, it depends on the manufacturer. At Vestra, it is offered for certain product families; for the others, production is on a CMT basis.

What minimum order should I plan for, under CMT or full package?

At Vestra, the minimum is 200 pieces per style. Small runs are reviewed case by case, depending on the number of colours.

Vestra Manufacturing, workwear manufacturer in Tunisia →

Sources

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